… or it is simple but with some caveats 🙂
I owe you an explanation guys. When I’ve manufactured these spray paints, I didn’t realize that it will be that hard to ship it overseas or even abroad. As it turned out, pressurized/flammable materials cannot be sent through air without serious hassle.
Here is an info from a webpage of one of couriers.
How to ship spray paint internationally?
Aerosols including spray paint can only be sent domestically, as they are classified as dangerous goods due to the fact that they are flammable. Shipping this kind of paint internationally is not allowed. These items are prohibited for airfreight. Licensed companies transporting spray paint abroad can only deliver it by road.
I am still looking for a solution to deliver it by road in EU but it looks like it will be really expensive on top of already expensive paint 🙁
If you have any suggestions, please leave a comment with it.
Original blog post starts here
During my restorations, I’ve often found it impossible to bring back a computer case to its former glory without using a spray paint. I’ve mastered my retr0brighting skills to the max but sometimes the plastic is so unevenly yellowed that it cannot be retr0brighted evenly. Sometimes, some plastics become over retr0brighted. Very often there is a need to fill cracks or holes with a putty and spray painting it afterward is simply a must.
The problem is that there are no matching colors on the market and every paint has to be custom made. The idea to create custom Retro computer spray paints was born.
Since I am releasing these paint series (available through my web shop), I’ve decided to write a short How-to spray paint a case properly.
This isn’t really complicated procedure but there are some steps that might ruin the whole job if skipped. Lets get started 🙂
First of all, plastic part that is going to be painted has to be thoroughly cleaned and de-greased. Usually, I wash it with a brush and a detergent in a warm water.
Once a case is nice and clean, we need to remove all badges, rubber stands or stickers and cover those that cannot be removed.
To remove badges, I usually use a hot air gun set to 100 degrees Celsius or a spray freezer, depending on a badge type.
To cover various stickers, I usually use a paper painters tape which is later cut with a sharp tool.
Next step is to apply a thin layer of a plastic primer or undercoating. It is worth mentioning to choose a proper color of an undercoat spray. Get bright undercoating colors if a final color is bright. In my example, I’ve used a light grey undercoating.
We only need a thin layer of it but sometimes it has two be done in to rounds. A rule of thumb here is to keep a spray nozzle at least 30 cm away from a part being painted. If a single layer is not enough to cover darker spots, I can always apply another thin layer after 20 minutes.
If possible, apply spray paint outside or in well ventilated area. Also, remember to wear at least a face mask or even better, a face mask with a filter. It is not really healthy to inhale paint dust and airborne paint solvent.
Final layer painting
Once an undercoat layer is dry (usually after an hour), a final layer can be applied. Again, keep a nozzle at least 30 cm away from a part while painting and if there is a need, apply second layer.
Below some pics of a painted parts.
On the left – original and not painted. On the right – over retr0brighted. The spray painted one is in the middle.
Getting Retro computer spray paints
All above spray paints are available in my web shop.
So far, I’ve managed to manufacture paints for:
There are more colors to be made so please leave me a comment which color you think should be manufactured next.
I hope this post was helpful 🙂
If you want to get retro gear or hardware modules, please visit our shop -> https://retrohax.net/shop/